【News Buddy】走進普洱景邁山 遊林品茶觀雲海
【原文】摘錄自2024年1月11日香港《文匯報》：
對愛茶的人而言，雲南普洱景邁山並不陌生。隨着「景邁山古茶林文化景觀」入列《世界遺產名錄》，成為全球首個茶主題世界文化遺產，景邁山的名氣和人氣雙雙飆升。「普洱景邁山古茶林文化景觀」位於雲南省普洱市瀾滄拉祜族自治縣，此景觀歷經千年的發展，形成林茶共生、人地和諧的獨特文化景觀，也是保存完整的人工栽培古茶林的典型代表。
千年萬畝古茶園——大平掌古茶園，是目前世上保存最完好、年代最久遠、面積最大的人工栽培型古茶園，有1,800多年的歷史，被譽為「茶樹自然博物館」。從入口進入，濃厚的森林氣息撲面而來：高聳入雲的參天大樹、茂密幽深的樹林，都或許與你印象中的茶園大相逕庭，而這正是景邁山的特別之處。
千百年來，這裏的原住民從不破壞森林，而是保留林中大部分喬木。正是如此，這裏形成了立體的生態系統：高處是高大的喬木，中間是可供採摘的茶葉，下面又有翠綠的青草。植物們相互依存，保留着原始的生態環境，也形成了古茶園獨特的景觀。
如果在三四月份或者秋天採摘季來到這裏，你會見到不同民族的當地村民在採摘茶葉，因為景邁山另一特色就是這裏世居着布朗族、傣族，他們有着不同的民族文化，但都信仰茶祖。
茶園中還有很多樹齡超過500年，甚至千年的古茶樹。茶園不收門票，大家可以進山一觀風景。不過進山的路若是鋪設瀝青，會影響古茶園的茶葉質量，所以現有的路都是原生態的塘石路。
「普洱景邁山古茶林文化景觀」內還分布着9個傳統的千年民居。從航拍角度來看，木製的民居在山林中若隱若現。白天，它們炊煙裊裊，散發着延續千年的人間煙火氣息；夜晚，這裏又燈光點點，與滿天繁星融為一體，化身似神仙落入凡塵的駐足之所……
翁基古寨是個千年布朗族古寨，它依芒景山而建、被茶林包圍，保存着景邁山布朗族村落的傳統格局和歷史風貌。村中建築均為干欄式傳統民居，其中49棟是文物建築。村界、寺旁分布的柏樹、菩提樹、榕樹等，皆被村民稱為護寨樹。而這裏的佛寺、寨門、寨心等景觀也都值得一看。
屋簷上高高聳立的茶圖樣、古寨中的千年茶圖騰石刻磚、村寨中家家戶戶擺放或晾曬的茶葉，都是當地居民最真實的生活環境和狀態，如可在此住下，便能慢慢體會。說起住，翁基古寨內開了幾家具有原始風貌的客棧；因為申遺，這裏不僅被保護得好，而且就算是翻新，也必須保持原狀。
每年11月至次年2月，是景邁山上雲海最高頻出現的時期，其他時候，雲海就是隨機出現了，而且要看海拔、氣候等條件是否合適。
住在客棧時，可以早些起床，在小露台或古寨最高點等待雲海美景。而當雲凝成海的那一刻，或許也是通往仙境之門打開之時。
在景邁，從日出到正午，你將看到雲海的各種美貌。在朝霞映紅天邊時，縹緲的雲海會被染成金色或紅色；隨着太陽升起，雲海會轉為厚密或輕淡的白色。那厚密的白像海浪滾滾而來，而那輕淡的白，則如裊裊輕煙升起；待到正午，雲海從空中散去，受過洗禮的村莊茶林便會展露真容。
Forest Walks, Tea Tasting, and Breathtaking Cloudscapes
【譯文】Mt. Jingmai in Pu'er, Yunnan Province, is no stranger to tea lovers. With the inscription "Cultural Landscape of Old Tea Forests of the Jingmai Mountain in Pu'er" on the World Heritage List, becoming the world's first tea-themed World Cultural Heritage site, the fame and popularity of Jingmai Mountain has soared. The "Cultural Landscape of Old Tea Forests of the Jingmai Mountain in Pu'er" is located in Lahu Autonomous County of Lancang, Pu'er City, Yunnan Province. This landscape has undergone thousands of years of development, forming a unique cultural landscape of forest and tea symbiosis and harmony between people and the earth, and it is also a typical representative of the well-preserved artificially cultivated ancient tea forests.
The Dapingzhang Ancient Tea Plantation is the best-preserved, oldest and largest artificially cultivated ancient tea plantation in the world, with a history of more than 1,800 years, and has been honoured as the "Museum of Tea Tree Nature". Entering from the entrance, you will be greeted by a rich forest atmosphere: towering trees and dense and deep forests, which may differ from the tea gardens you remember, making Jingmai Mountain unique.
For thousands of years, the indigenous people here have never destroyed the forest but have kept most of the trees in the forest. As a result, a three-dimensional ecosystem has developed here: tall trees at the top, tea leaves for picking in the middle, and green grass below. The plants are interdependent, preserving the original ecological environment and forming the unique landscape of the ancient tea plantation.
Suppose you come here in March or April or during the fall picking season. In that case, you will see local villagers of different ethnic groups picking tea leaves because another feature of Jingmai Mountain is that it is inhabited by the Brown and Dai ethnic groups, who have different ethnic cultures but all believe in the Tea Ancestor.
There are also many ancient tea trees in the tea plantation that are over 500 or even a thousand years old. There is no admission fee for the tea plantation, so you can go into the mountains to look at the scenery. However, if the road into the hill is paved with asphalt, it will affect the quality of the tea leaves in the ancient tea plantation, so the existing road is the original pond stone road.
Nine traditional thousand-year-old houses are also in the "Cultural Landscape of Old Tea Forests of the Jingmai Mountain in Pu'er". From an aerial viewpoint, the wooden dwellings are hidden in the mountains and forests. In the daytime, they are swirling with smoke, emitting the smell of human fireworks that have lasted for thousands of years; at night, they are dotted with lights, blending with the stars in the sky, transforming them into the dwelling places of immortals who have fallen into the mortal world.
Wengji Ancient Village is a thousand-year-old Brown village; it was built according to the Mangjing Mountain, surrounded by tea forests, preserving the traditional pattern and historical features of the Brown villages in Jingmai Mountain. All the buildings in the village are traditional houses in the dry lattice style, of which 49 are cultural relics. The cypress, linden, and banyan trees that line the village boundary and the temple are all called village protection trees by the villagers. The Buddhist temple, the village gate and the village's heart are also worth seeing.
The tea patterns standing high on the eaves, the thousand-year-old tea totem stone bricks in the ancient village, and the tea leaves placed or dried in every household in the town are the most realistic living environment and state of the local residents, which can be realized slowly if you stay here. Speaking of living, there are several inns with original style in Wengji Ancient Walled City; because of the application for heritage, this place is well protected and must maintain the original condition even if it is renovated.
Every year, from November to February, is the highest frequency of the sea of clouds in the Jingmai mountain period; other times, the sea of clouds is random and depends on the altitude, climate, and other conditions are suitable.
Live in the inn, you can get up earlier, on the small terrace or the highest point of the ancient fortress, waiting for the sea of clouds and beautiful scenery. And when the clouds condensed into the sea at that moment, perhaps also to the door to the fairyland open time.
In Jingmai, you will see the beauty of the sea of clouds in various ways, from sunrise to midday. As the sunlight reddens the sky, the sea of clouds is tinted gold or red; as the sun rises, the clouds turn to a thick or light white colour. As the sun rises, the sea of clouds will change to a broader or more golden-white colour. The wider white colour resembles the rolling waves of the sea, while the lighter white colour resembles the swirling of light smoke; when the sea of clouds disperses in the air at midday, the tea forests in the baptized villages will reveal their true colours. ◆ Tiffany
